Winther 10 Environmental sustainability of Gore- Tex [Copenhagen University College of Engineering]
Xpro-1 Mads Balsig Nielsen (100057) Kasper Laustsen Simonsen (101201) Line Kynde Lynnerup (101617) Line Kolling (101632) 2
Abstract The Gore-Tex membrane in The North Face W Point Five jacket protects consumers against cold weather conditions, but there are also environmental issues regarding the membrane. Using the exploratory method to approach this, the report examines and explores knowledge to identify the environmental impact of Gore-Tex. Throughout the jacket s lifetime it emits 6.288 kg CO 2, and has a total energy consumption of 77.75 MJ. The Gore-Tex membrane has been compared with a Dermizax (PU) membrane from Toray, and the result shows how they impact the environment equally. It is possible to save energy, if the usage phase is increased to more than five years, provided the consumer buys less and keeps the jacket longer. The chemicals, which appear in the process of manufacturing and combusting, are known to harm both environment and humans. However, these processes take place in a closed system that does not release harmful by-products into the environment. 3
Table of Contents ABSTRACT... 3 INTRODUCTION... 6 PROBLEM STATEMENT... 7 PROJECT LIMITATION... 8 METHOD... 9 FUNCTIONAL UNIT... 10 SUSTAINABILITY... 11 GORE- TEX... 12 PICTURES FROM GORE-TEX.COM... 12 THE NORTH FACE... 13 GORE- TEX FUNCTION IN THE NORTH FACE W JACKET...14 PICTURES FROM GORE-TEX.COM... 14 MECO- TABLE... 15 MATERIAL PHASE...18 Gore- Tex production...20 Environmental aspects and workers health...21 MANUFACTURING PHASE...24 USAGE PHASE...25 Energy consumption...25 Nikwax...25 Target group and approaching the product...27 Who buys Gore- Tex jackets...27 Why would one buy a Gore- Tex jacket?...29 Which factors make the consumer buy the jacket?...31 DISPOSAL...31 Degradation of PTFE...32 Actual Disposal...32 TRANSPORT...34 MECO OVERVIEW... 36 DISCUSSION... 37 CONCLUSION... 40 GROUP WORK REFLECTION... 41 INTRODUCTION...41 REFLECTION AND DISCUSSION...41 MAINTENANCE OF THE PSYCHOLOGICAL CONTRACT...41 CONCLUSION...42 BIBLIOGRAHPY... 43 ONLINE DOCUMENTS...44 4
WEBLIOGRAPHY...45 APPENDIX 1: HOMEPAGE... 48 APPENDIX 2: PLASTICS... 52 APPENDIX 3: CALCULATIONS... 55 APPENDIX 4: E- MAILS AND CONVERSATIONS... 57 APPENDIX 5: CONSIDERATION OF DATA... 70 5
Introduction The world is filled with challenging terrain, from hot deserts to cold glaciers. In the cold conditions it is especially important to use the appropriate technical clothes in order to keep warm. For this, there are countless products such as jackets, gloves and shoes. Jackets in particular are important, as they need to keep people warm but also to keep water out, and preferably made of breathable material. Gore-Tex is a product that meets all these requirements. Many ski jackets are fitted with Gore-Tex and if you are a skier, your jacket probably has it too. In spite of its popularity we had no knowledge of the technology behind Gore-Tex before we threw ourselves into this project. This is one of the reasons for choosing Gore-Tex: to understand the material, its use, its manufacture and the impact on the environment of using it. The life cycle assessment of a The North Face ski jacket with Gore-Tex Pro Shell is included as well as the environmental aspect of making the Gore-Tex and the rest of the jacket. All this will be viewed in a life cycle assessment simply illustrated in a MECO table, which will contain calculations of materials in the jacket, and how much energy is consumed in its lifespan. It is a cradle to grave analysis from the raw material used in the making of Gore-Tex and through the use of the jacket, how much energy is used to maintenance of the jacket, and finally the disposal of the jacket. We want to elucidate what happens to the jacket after usage, at the waste disposal and which way is less polluting for the environment. 6
Problem statement Proofing of textiles is vital in order to keep dry and warm, especially within technical outdoor gear. Gore-Tex jackets are highly prevalent among skiers and the popular membrane is widely distributed. It protects consumers against nature but does it also preserve the environment? This report will examine the environmental impact of the well-known Gore-Tex membrane. In order to clarify the cradle to grave impact of the membrane in a tangible way, it will be viewed in a life cycle assessment of a North Face W Point Five jacket size large with Gore-Tex Pro Shell. The project will result in a written report and a website disclosing the LCA of The North Face jacket, resulting in an environmental assessment. Primary question: What are the possible environmental-related issues regarding Gore-Tex? Sub questions: - What is Gore-Tex? - How is the LCA for The North Face W Point Five jacket with the Gore-Tex Pro Shell membrane? - Who is the target group and how do they approach the product? - Are there any alternatives to Gore-Tex? 7
Project limitation - - - - - - - Missing information from relevant players on the market will perhaps reduce our basis for decision 1. Restricting resources consisting of time, economy and status will cause an insufficient information foundation. Usage phase in the LCA is only calculated upon in a perspective of five years. These five years will include calculations on impregnation and washing, which are the energy taxing factors. Whatever happens with the jacket after the five-year duration is hard to define. There is a great possibility of the jacket being sold as a second-hand product. It is not possible to make any clear assumptions on usage of a second-hand product. Assuming that the energy of manufacturing is one seventh of the material energy. In the report there are several figures and information provided by various sources e.g. concerning the quantification of The North Face W Point Five jacket, Gore-Tex estimates and usage 2. The credibility of each source has been evaluated and thoroughly examined in order to provide an estimate that borders the reality. The calculations of transport of the jacket are for one jacket without the packaging and pallets. The group consists of four first-year students who have not worked with the subject environmental assessment before, which is the main purpose of the report on Global Business Engineering, first term. 1 Appendix 5. 2 Appendix 5. 8
Method To ensure that no decisions are made on a random basis, the report will make use of methods and models that can support our analysis and thought processes in preparation to create a secure basis for decision making as possible. The purpose in this report is to devise a life cycle assessment of a The North Face W Point Five jacket size large with Gore-Tex Pro Shell. The report will be based on a model from the Danish Environmental Protection Agency, which reviews the main elements of an LCA 3. The model illustrates the connection between the individual elements and how to alternate between them. Figure from the Danish Environmental Protection Agency. 1 3 LCA- center.dk webliography. 9
The approach through the project is an exploratory 4 assessment in order to identify the environmental impact of Gore-Tex. The report will examine the consumers buying-behavior on the basis of qualitative interviews with four sales people 5 engaged in advising them when they purchase technical clothing. The information from the interviews has been evaluated in order to make a final decision. Throughout the report both quantitative and qualitative data were collected and used to establish the facts. The uncertainty is considered in assessing the data collected 6. Functional unit The functional unit is a central term regarding environmental appraisal and it describes the function of the product or output. Below, the functional unit will be thoroughly described. In order to achieve a certain functionality and gain a definite standard of a ski jacket, the following quantities ought to be fulfilled. - The average water column pressure 7 value for a ski jacket is 10.000 mm 8 - The jackets are water repellent due to an exterior waterproofing. - An exterior coating is employed to give the jackets their water repellant properties. To be regarded as wind protective the material must be completely impervious to wind. - The minimum breathability of a jacket must be 7000 g/m2/24hrs 9,10 - The jacket ought to be flexible. 4 Den skindbarlige virkelighed, page 22. 5 Appendix 5. 6 Appendix 5. 7 Water column pressure is a unit, which measures materials ability to withstand water penetration. 8 http://butik.hojmark.dk/sog?sog=skijakke. 5 The unit describes how much water vapour there is able to penetrate one square meter fabric in one day. 10 http://www.tradekd.com/product_list/g/8604/2515/ 10
Sustainability The word sustainability has its origin in the Latin word sustinere meaning, to hold up. The Longman dictionary of Contemporary English expounds the word sustainable as: able to continue without causing damage to the environment and the thesaurus holds words as maintain, support and endure. A more accurate and modern definition would be the widely quoted one of the United Nations General Assembly 1987; sustainable development is development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs. 11 However, it is vital to comprehend sustainability in the light of three dimensions: Environment, social and economic. In order to achieve sustainability all three factors need to be accounted for. The North Face knows that there is no market for a product that lies in one of the three extremes of the model they have to reach a compromise between the three whilst delivering the technical performance that their brand is renowned for. These three pillars of sustainability have an equal influence on the LCA, and can be interpreted through the four phases of the MECO table: Material, manufacturing, usage and disposal. 11 http://www.arch.wsu.edu/09%20publications/sustain/defnsust.htm 11
Gore-Tex Gore-Tex is a part of W. L. Gore & Associates founded in 1958 by Bill and Vieve Gore. Mr. Gore was a former employee at DuPont 12 and envisioned that PTFE had a great, unexploited potential. After ten years of impressive progress, Bob Gore, son of Bill Gore, revolutionized the business by stretching PTFE. The outcome was not expected, and it led to eptfe, which is the material used in Gore-Tex membranes in order to keep customers dry and provide breathability. The present Gore Corporation still has its focus on fluoropolymer, but its product range stretches far beyond outdoor clothing into electronic and medical fields. Bill s vision has certainly proven prosperous and PTFE continues to advance its innovative importance. Gore-Tex is synonymous within the outdoor clothing market for keeping dry and comfortable. Other brands and technologies are slowly gaining a reputation as the science of nanotechnology evolves. However, the market is slow to adopt these unknown brands, allowing Gore-Tex to retain its pre-eminent position. The membrane The Gore-Tex membrane consists of eptfe (expanded polytetrafluoroethylene). PTFE is a thermosetting plastic with a high melting point at 327 C, but its properties degrade above 260 C (according to DuPont). It has a density at 2.150 kg/m 3. 13 The PTFE emits a toxic gas at temperatures above 260 C. zoom Pictures from Gore-tex.com 14 Fluorine is a halogen, which is placed in Group 7 of the Periodic Table of Elements. It has seven electrons in its outer shell, and it wants one more electron to become stable. The fluorine atom 12 PTFE was accidently invented by DuPont industries in1938, when trying to make a CFC refrigerant. 13 Plast teknologi 14 http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/satellite/content/what-is-gore-tex-membrane 12
shares an electron pair with a carbon atom. Fluorine is the most electronegative of the halogens, and therefore it forms an extremely strong bond with carbon (C-F). When fluorine is a part of a molecule, the fluorine repels anything that tries to come close to it. The polytetrafluoroethylene is made of many fluorine atoms, and these atoms do not like other kinds of molecules, and therefore they try to be as far away from the other molecules as they can get. This is the reason why nothing sticks to PTFE. The carbon-fluorine bond is very strong, and the fluorine atoms shield the vulnerable carbon chain. The PTFE is very stable and inert compared to other plastics. The North Face The North Face has its name from the coldest, most unforgiving side of a mountain, but ironically it all started at San Francisco's North Beach. In 1966, two hiking enthusiasts determined to follow their passions and founded a small mountain-climbing retail store, which later became known as The North Face, a supplier of high-performance climbing and backpacking equipment. Through the 1970s, The North Face became a well-respected brand and was worn by many outdoor athletes and began sponsoring expeditions to some of the most remote corners of the globe. By the early 1980s, The North Face introduced itself to the ski world by adding extreme skiwear to their product offering. By the end of the decade, The North Face became the only supplier in the United States to offer a complete collection of high-performance outerwear and skiwear. This highperformance was caused by a laminate inside the clothes, called Gore-Tex. The North Face use both Gore-Tex and Hyvent in their jackets. Hyvent is a coating painted on the inside of the jacket, while Gore-Tex is a membrane, which is laminated inside the jacket. This makes Gore-Tex better than Hyvent, and it is used in expensive quality jackets. The North Face W Point Five jacket has the following specifications: Water column pressure value at 28,000 mm and a breathability of 14,000 g/m/24h, which are in accordance with the minimum requirements of the functional unit in the report. 13
Gore-Tex function in The North Face W jacket The jacket with the Gore-Tex membrane is completely waterproof and breathable at the same time. The membrane contains more than 1.4 billion microscopic pores per square cm. The pores are 700 times larger than a single water vapor molecule, and 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet, which makes the membrane breathable, waterproof, and perfect for skiing and outdoor wear. The vapor can easily escape, so the jacket can release perspiration. The Gore-Tex membrane is not very elastic, so it has to be protected from excessive strain. Two layers of protection are employed to shield the fragile membrane and this results in an extremely long service life. PTFE with stands extreme temperatures, ultraviolet light, solvents and oxidizing agents and so retains its original properties for long periods. Pictures from Gore-tex.com 15 15 http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/satellite/product-content/pro-shell 14
MECO-table An LCA, Life Cycle Assessment, is a method that evaluates the possible environmental impact and resource consumption of a product or a service. The LCA enables one to assess the environmental impact of a product throughout its entire life cycle cradle to grave. It forces the manufacturers to look beyond the CO 2 emissions of the production, which is only one phase of the product, and consider the CO 2 emissions of the product from raw material to disposal. This enables one to identify and highlight the phase where CO 2 emissions are critical and then turn the attention to enhancing the efficiency. Some LCAs are considered to be a cradle to cradle assessment, because some or most of the materials in the product are recycled. In the case of The North Face W Point Five jacket it is reasonable to assume it to be incinerated. This assumption is based upon a few facts: - - It is possible to recycle Gore-Tex, but the cost is exorbitant. Furthermore, The North Face jacket consists of various plastics and metals, which would be complex and costly to disassemble. Jackets are regarded as textiles and are either binned or donated to second hand suppliers such as The Red Cross. The Red Cross estimates that 10 % is sent to incineration, 7-8 % is sold in their stores, and the remaining part is sold to the European recycling industry. The jacket often ends its journey at an incineration plant. 16,17 The MECO table is a simple way to illustrate the figures and chemicals of an LCA. The table divides the LCA into four phases: Material, manufacturing, usage and disposal. Furthermore it subdivides each phase into the MECO overview: Material, Energy, Chemicals and Other. This report will regard the transport in between each phase as one calculation. It is due to the fact that most transportation takes place between the manufacturing and usage phase. Therefore the 16 Mail from Red Cross. Appendix 4. 17 http://www.wasteonline.org.uk/resources/informationsheets/textiles.htm 15
presented MECO table has five phases, transportation being the fifth one. The report regards Gore-Tex as a part of The North Face jacket, and therefore the LCA of the Gore- Tex membrane is considered in accordance with the LCA of the jacket. As a result, the functional unit of this MECO table is the jacket. Below is in short terms how the MECO table is formed. Raw material In order to meet with the MECO sources The North Face jacket has been quantified. This was carried out at The North Face Store. The non-sustainable materials are measured in PR (Person- Reserve). The energy consumption of processing each material is calculated in the program CES 2010 and is expressed in mega joules. There is a detailed description of the Gore-Tex manufacturing together with a short overview of the other plastics used in the jacket. Manufacturing Due to the difficulty of gaining this information from Gore-Tex and North Face assumptions have been made. Usage Usage is related to more than just wearing the jacket. In this phase assumptions have been made to describe the typical buyer of The North Face jacket and how jacket is maintained. In this part calculations on energy, in relation to washing the jacket and producing the impregnation, have been made. 16
Disposal The LCA of The North Face jacket is, as mentioned, considered being cradle to grave. Therefore calculations on the heat of combusting and CO 2 emissions when incinerated are present in the MECO table. No matter how many times the jacket is recycled, it will eventually end up in an incineration plant. The energy of recycling is not included, because the difficulties of recycling the materials. Transport It is a fact that transportation takes place between each MECO phase. However, the only tangible transportation is from the manufacturer to the store where the jacket is bought. Hence this is the only transportation calculated upon. The figure is measured in mega joule. 17
Material phase The jacket has a total weight of 472g = 0.472kg. Constituents in the jacket Membrane Laminate Velcro Zipper protection Nifco strings YKK Zipper, 5cn Wire in hat Black plastic attached to the zippers Material PTFE Nylon (PA) PVC tppur POM Polyester Aluminum Polyester The North Face Store - Appendix 4. The scheme is divided into two parts. The first part is primary material production with the embodied energy and CO 2 footprint. The second part is the disposal, where the heat of combusting and the combusting of CO 2 are shown. Given values: Material Embodied energy (MJ/kg) CO 2 footprint (kg/kg) Heat of combusting (MJ/kg) Combustion CO 2 (kg/kg) PTFE 145-160 7.06-7.8 15.5-16.3 1.43-1.5 Nylon 121-135 5.5-5.6 30.1-31.6 2.28-2.39 PVC 68-95 2.2-2.6 17.5-18.4 1.37-1.44 Polyurethane (tppur) 113-125 4.57-5.28 21.8-22.9 2-2.1 18
Polyoxymethylen (POM) 99.5-110 3.8-4.2 15.5-16.3 1.43-1.5 Polyester 84-93 2.7-3 28-29.4 2.49-2.62 Aluminum 18-21.4 1.04-1.15 x x Values. 18 There are two extremes, where the average value of these is used. Material Quantity (kg) Embodied energy (MJ) CO 2 footprint (kg) Heat of combusting (MJ) Combustion CO 2 (kg) PTFE 0.01 1.525 0,0743 0.159 0.01465 Nylon 0.345 44.16 1.91475 10.6433 0.805575 PVC 0.034 2.771 0.0816 0.6103 0.04777 Polyurethane (tppur) 0.002 0.238 0.00985 0.0318 0.0041 Polyoxymethylen (POM) 0.031 3.24725 0.124 0.8897 0.07 Polyester 0.04 3.54 0.114 1.148 0.0586 Aluminum 0.01 0.197 0.01095 x x Total 0.472 55.6783 2.32945 13.4821*0.80 = 10.79* 1.0007 Calculations - Appendix 3. *The heat of combusting is found by multiplying 80 percent, because 20 percent is lost in combustion. It is difficult to decide the exact material of the wire in the jacket. Aluminum would be a qualified guess, because of its ability to bend. The exact aluminum alloy is harder to determine though. 18 CES program 19
Gore-Tex production The Gore-Tex membrane consists of expanded polytetrafluoroethylene, usually referred to as eptfe. At a glance PTFE is made from the monomer tetrafluoroethylene, TFE, by free radical vinyl polymerization. The short review does not disclose the complexity of the Gore-Tex manufacturing. The Gore Corporation has to take several matters into account: - - - The synthesizing of TFE lists fluorspar, hydrofluoric acid and the highly toxic chloroform TFE is highly flammable. The heating of PTFE generate fumes that, if inhaled, can cause Teflon flu also known as polymer fume fever. Due to the flammability of TFE, it is manufactured at the site to avoid transportation. Prior to the pyrolysis 19 of TFE there is a preparation of chloroform and hydrofluoric acid. Hydrofluoric acid, HF preparation: CaF 2 + H 2 SO 4 2 HF + CaSO 4 Chloroform, CHCl 3 preparation: CH 4 + 3 Cl 2 CHCl 3 + 3 HCl CHCl 3 and HF are then synthesized into chlorodifluoromethane: CHCl 3 + 2 HF CHClF 2 + 2 HCl Then the actual pyrolysis takes place: 2 CHClF 2 CF 2 =CF 2 + 2 HCL Among these compounds a few other less volumetrically significant ones are produced: Hexafluoropropylene, C 3 F 6 and tiny amount of highly toxic perfluoroisobutylene, PFIB 20. In order to gain purity of TFE the products are cooled, scrubbed with a dilute base solution to remove HCL and then dried. At this point TFE is a highly explosive gas, which ought to be handled with care to avoid explosive decomposition CF 2 =CF 2 C + CF 4. The gas is then compressed and distilled to recover the CHClF 2 that have not reacted and to gain further purity. 19 An action where ingredients are heated in absence of oxygen. 20 PFIB is listed on the Chemical Weapons Convention as a Schedule 2. 20
There are two main commercial ways to polymerize TFE: Suspension and dispersion. However, the process is company confidential 21 and therefore one can only assume that Gore uses dispersion polymerization, because the outcome is fine powder or a paste-like substance, which can be further processed into PTFE coatings or finishes. TFE is liquefied in an aqueous container in presence of an initiating chemical. The substance is then mixed gently and water is gradually removed as TFE polymerizes. A vast amount of the PTFE is created in the early stage and it grows slowly into a milky paste-like substance, known as PTFE dispersion. The simple theoretic description is given by the image below. The TFE polymer is polymerized into PTFE by breaking the double bond between the carbon atoms giving an opportunity to create a long chain of TFE polymers. This chain often consists of a vast number usually described by the letter, n. The last step in manufacturing the Gore-Tex membrane is extracting the PTFE in order to produce a semi-crystalline film. It is achieved by expanding the PTFE under its melting point of 327 o C in presence of aromatic hydrocarbon. The aromatic hydrocarbon creates porosity, which is the vital feature in Gore-Tex that allows vapour, but not water molecules, to pass. Environmental aspects and workers health The Danish Environment Ministry, MST and the Danish Labour Inspectorate, AT, have published a legislation on substances and materials that ought to be limited at workplaces. However, the Gore Corporation is situated in the US but it seems reasonable to argue that these limits are similar in every modern industrial country. 21 Mail from Martin Amnell - Appendix 4. 21
In the chart below is information on the substances that occur in the process of manufacturing the eptfe membrane. Name Molecular formula CAS-No. Boiling point o C Limit NB Chloroform CHCl 3 67-66-3 61,2 10 mg/m 3 EHK Fluorite CaF 2 Fluorides 1360 2,5 mg/m 3 E Calcium Sulfate CaSO 4 7778-18-9 1460 Hydrogen Fluoride HF 7664-39-3 19,6 1,5 mg/m 3 E Hydrogen Chloride HCL 7647-01-0-85,1 7 mg/m 3 EL Hexafluoropropylene C 3 F 6 116-15-4-28 Perfluoroisobutylene PFIB 382-21-8 7,082 mg/m 3 L HCFC-22 CHClF 2 75-45-6-40,7 AT guidance http://www.at.dk/~/media/3fa26655715740ed84ea28ec1191fb62.ashx The synthesizing of TFE is done at a temperature at which most of the substances are in their gaseous state. There is a considerable danger if the reactors leak. The health hazards are given by the limits in the chart and the letters E, H, K and L. - - - - E: The substance has an EU limitation. H: The substance can be absorbed through the skin. K: The substance is suspected of being carcinogenic (cancer-producing). L: The limitation given is the absolute maximum. Chloroform and PFIB are to be highlighted as health hazards. In both cases an oral dose is known to be fatal. PFIB is known to be the source of Teflon flue. Gore takes practical measures to ensure that these toxic chemicals are not released into the environment by producing PTFE within a closed reactor. Chloroform is also listed on MST s list of unwanted substances with the classifications: Xn;R22 - Xi;R38 - Carc3;R40 - Xn;R48/20/22. These can be boiled down to the risk clauses H373, H315 and H351, which basically state that chloroform can cause organ damage, skin irritation and cancer. 22
Another vital consideration regards the storage of TFE. Viewed in the light of its properties it seems harmless. However, the presence of oxygen can ignite the TFE causing it to explode and release heat at a scale much like black gunpowder. Detonation of oxygen and TFE can increase the pressure up to 100 times the initial pressure. Therefore safe storage requests no more than 20 ppm. oxygen. TFE has the physical properties including a boiling point of -76.3 o C at normal pressure 101.3 KPa. Therefore it is reasonable to assume that it is stored as liquid, under conditions of high pressure and low temperatures. Taking the environment into account C 3 F 6 and HCFC-22 are both considered ozone depleting. Both listed as fluorinated greenhouse gasses on MST s list of unwanted substances. HCFC-22 is also highlighted in the Montreal Protocol adjustments of 2007 applying it to the HCFC Phase-out Schedule. This means by 2013 the production and consumption of such chemicals have to be frozen on at the average level of 2009. Furthermore the level is reduced in a number of phases until a complete phase-out estimated to be achieved in 2040. The question that ought to be asked is how this will impact upon the production of the Gore-Tex membranes. In this case the answer is to comprehend HCFC-22 as a direct and fully exploited feedstock to manufacture PTFE, whether this is regarded as a temporarily solution is not certain. The interpretation forces the Gore Corporation to fully convert HCFC-22 into TFE in the pyrolysis. However, economic drivers that have been present since PTFE first became commercialized have ensured that today s technologies are 90-95 % efficient at converting HCFC-22 into TFE. When PTFE was first invented, the synthesizing was considered exorbitant, therefore techniques was applied so it was possible to recover and reuse the non-reacted HCFC-22. 22,23,24,25 22 Mail from MIM. Appendix 4. 23 http://www.at.dk/~/media/3fa26655715740ed84ea28ec1191fb62.ashx 24Listen over uønskede stoffer 25 Fluoroplastics: Non-melt Processible Fluoroplastics Chapter 4. 23
Manufacturing phase The Gore-Tex membrane is manufactured in China by Gore. They apply the laminate that protects the membrane and therefore most of the textile is produced before it is sent to The North Face production unit in China. 26 It is cost efficient to place The North Face production unit in China, both in an economic and environmental matter. Both Gore and The North Face know that they mainly meet with the economic sphere of the sustainability when producing the jacket in China. In this case they ought to make it equitable in order to achieve social acceptance. Therefore both companies have a Code Of Conduct ensuring that they do not benefit from child labor or insufficient living wage. 27 The North Face has to consider the environment, both regarding manufacturing and transport, in order to make their jacket sustainable. Since the jacket is made of different materials, it is hard to find an exact value of how much energy is absorbed in manufacturing the jacket. It is assumed that the industry norm of one-seventh of the embodied energy is the energy it costs to produce the jacket: 7.95 MJ. 28 26 Mail from Martin Amnell - Appendix 4. 27 http://www.rankabrand.com/the+north+face 28 Well Dressed - Page 29 24
Usage Phase Energy consumption The energy consumption, which is consumed in a washing machine while the jacket is cleaned, is estimated by measuring how much electricity and water are used every time the machine washes. A washing machine marked with an A, the electricity utilization is very small, only 0.95 kwh, or 3420 Joule 29. The usage of water for every wash is 49 litres 30. If the jacket is washed once a year for 5 years, the energy consumption will be 17,100 Joule and 245 litres. Nikwax Gore-Tex wash and maintenance guideline recommends re-impregnating of the outdoor jacket with DWR (Durable Water Repellent), which is a product produced by numerous brands. In this case most Danish suppliers and outdoor stores endorse Nikwax. Nikwax is simply a product that prolongs the life of an outdoor jacket because the re-impregnation ensures that water will not soak the material and therefore enable the Gore-Tex membrane to breathe. This should be considered as a positive environmental contribution. Nikwax has recognized the importance of taking the environment into account. Consequently the waterproofing company has achieved several eco awards and published a Corporate Social Responsibility report. 31 Though the exact formula is company confidential, Nikwax emphasizes that 29 30 Energistyrelsen - vaskemaskine. 31 Nikwax CSR report. 25
it does not utilise fluor chemicals in its products and in relation to the ISO14001 standard, Nikwax has decreased its carbon footprint. 32 A table in the CSR report simply informing the energy used to produce and fill one litre of Nikwax. Total of this number is 0.77666 kwh electricity per litre manufactured and filled. This is 2.796 MJ 33 per litre and in relation to Nikwax s recommendation, 100 ml per wash, it is 0.2796 MJ per impregnation. The jacket is impregnated five times during its lifespan 34, which adds up to a total consumption of 500 ml Nikwax, 1.398 MJ in total. 32 Sunday Times best Green Companies. 20 1 KWH = 3.6 MJ 0.77666 KWH = 2.795976 MJ 21 Summary of mails Appendix 4. 26
Target group and approaching the product Usage is an important phase of the complete LCA. Hence this part will contain an analysis of the consumer-behaviour. The analysis is confined to the Danish market. A decision made on the basis of four sources, which operate in Denmark. The sources consist of four salespersons 35 36 from shops that specialize in skiwear. It is vital to realise that consumers buy in order to gratify one person or one family s needs. It is important to determine a few things when talking of consumer-behaviour: Who is considered the typical buyer? Why is the product purchased? Which factors influence the purchase? These questions ought to be answered if the analysis is to reflect the needs and demands of the consumers. Who buys Gore-Tex jackets Category Geography/Localization Demography Psychography Behaviour Variable Denmark Age: 25-50, sex: both, income: all, social class: all Quality, functional, trendy, good fit, Brand loyalty, individual involvement, usage: several purpose Segmentation variable on the consumer market. Page 140 in Marketing en introduktion by Per Vagn Freytag, Jan Møller Jensen, Niels Jørgensen og Tage Koed Madsen The age range of the purchasers, who buy a ski jacket, is wide. The gender ratio is equal and the buyers range in age from 25 to 50 years. When it comes to expectations, the clientele has a common denominator, superior quality. Income often plays a decisive role when the consumer is to choose between a budget or a pricey jacket. But when it comes to The North Face Point Five jacket, it is a matter of lifestyle and values. 35 Appendix 4. 36 Appendix 5. 27
On this basis one can draw the conclusion that the average Dane or even the student is likely to buy the jacket even though it means footing the bill. This market segment will not settle with the ordinary but requires a jacket that offers superior performance in every possible situation. There is a demand for superior outdoor clothing, and the consumer often inquires about the technical details before purchasing the jacket. Hence the decision-making process is not the one of an impulse buy. It involves a careful process where most alternatives are considered. The model of the purchase-decision is also usable in order to illustrate this process. It extends and illustrates that the purchase often involves more than one person. Companies often use the model below, in order to establish a target group, to focus the appropriate marketing mix towards the involved persons. In the case of The North Face jacket it is not a matter of company strategies but rather an examination of the consumer decision-making process. The model is illustrative of this process as well. The purchase-decision, page 80 in Marketing en introduktion by Per Vagn Freytag, Jan Møller Jensen, Niels Jørgensen og Tage Koed Madsen The initiator is the one who suggests or considers the purchase. Next step is the actual purchase decision. In this case the consumer wants to purchase a jacket, but model and brand depends on external factors such as economy and opinions from social connections, who themselves have a 28
jacket with Gore-Tex. In this case the initiator has to make up one s mind whether is worth spending extra money to get a jacket with Gore-Tex. At this point Gore-Tex has to represent a special value to the initiator. It can be due to a social aspect but to a great extent the documentary proof of the expert, e.g. the salesperson, that Gore-Tex is superior. However, the salesperson can also cause a dilemma by suggesting possible alternatives to the Gore-Tex membrane. The information that the product expert supplies, will undoubtedly influence the process of selection regarding brand, model, colour, functionality etc. This might cloud the decision process and the buyer might look for further information e.g. on the Internet. In the final stage the decision is made and the purchase is done. In this case the buyer and end user is one and the same person. It appears that the typical Dane is familiar with Gore-Tex. However, lately several outdoor brands have developed their own waterproofing systems, and the Japanese company Toray is gaining popularity with their membrane Dermizax. Then again, Gore-Tex is a strong brand and outdoor companies who choose to use the membrane anticipate a higher sale. If an outdoor jacket has the Gore-Tex icon sewn on the jacket, it will differentiate itself from the other jackets and at the same time add an emotional value, which the consumer is willing to pay a bit extra for. The consumers who choose Gore-Tex in preference to the alternatives ascribe increased value to the brand. Therefore it is inferable that Gore-Tex has a market advantage compared with the competitors, like Dermizax. Why would one buy a Gore-Tex jacket? The success of the jackets with Gore-Tex membranes is not only attributed to demographic variables, but in an attempt to examine the success one must consider other factors. Psychographic factors are fit for use to a greater extent when analyzing and establishing the demands of the consumers. However, it is with some difficulty because it is somewhat indefinable, especially as the consumer does not tend to reveal the consideration preceding the purchase. One can use Maslow s hierarchy of needs 37 in order to interpret the requirements a ski jacket with Gore-Tex ought to meet. The interpretation will include two levels of the hierarchy, which relate to The North Face W Point Five jacket: Physiological and social needs. 37 Abraham Marslow opererer med fem behovs kategorier, hvor de lavere liggende behov skal tilfredsstilles i et vist omfang, før de næste behovslag bliver aktiveret og styrende for individets adfærd. Page 82 in Marketing en introduktion by Per Vagn Freytag, Jan Møller Jensen, Niels Jørgensen og Tage Koed Madsen. 29
Self- realisaqon personal growth & adventure Ego requirement presrge, status & success Social requirement friendship & accept Safety protecron & stability Physiological requirement food, water, warm, rest & sex Maslow s hierarchy of needs. Page 83 in Marketing en introduktion by Per Vagn Freytag, Jan Møller Jensen, Niels Jørgensen og Tage Koed Madsen. The model is very categorical in its way of illustrating humans needs. It portrays the behaviour of humans, based on known fixed needs, which might be considered too clear-cut in a realistic perspective. The North Face W Point Five jackets comply with a few levels in the pyramid. The jacket primarily meets with the fundamental needs of the human body, which is keeping warm without sweating. Even though this is a vital feature it will not make up for a sales pitch. The ski jacket is often replaced well before it is worn-out. This is because the sensation of a new jacket fulfils some other needs, which are located at a higher elevation in the hierarchy of needs. The proper clothes can lodge an appeal of social needs and accept. Therefore one can feel attractive and achieve social approval. Hence an assessment of the jacket s lifespan has to take two conflicting factors into account. If the assessment only considers the durability of the jacket, which are the physical needs of the body. The jacket is wearable for ten to fifteen years. 38 In this case the other factor overrules. Because the consumer is aware of the long durability of the jacket but chooses to satisfy the social needs. This is especially due to changing fashion trends, 38 Mail from Christoffer from Spejdersport - Appendix 4. 30
which does not make allowance for the complete lifespan. For this reason the jacket s lifetime is usually shortened five years or more because it does not fulfil the social needs of the consumer any longer. That is the point of fast fashion. Which factors make the consumer buy the jacket? When the consumer purchases a ski jacket, parameters such as price, fit, functionality, quality and fashion comes into play. These parameters might distribute and matter differently depending on the individual consumer. The price of a jacket with Gore-Tex membrane ranges from 2000 to 4000 kroner. 39 It is of great importance for the costumer that the jacket fits perfectly. This gives a greater flexibility and enables one to move freely. In addition, the jacket ought to be functional. This is to be understood in the sense of details such as ski pass pocket, powder skirt in waist and sleeve, fitted cleaning rag for sunglasses and goggles and an inner pocket for mobile phone and Ipod. It has already been outlined that fashion has its part in choosing a jacket. This season has its focus on soft extensible jackets that improves flexibility. The bestsellers are usually black and dark colours because they prevail longer in terms of fashion. Dark colours also have the advantage that they are easier to maintain in comparison with light coloured fabric and they are timelessly classic colours. Softshell jackets have also been popular in the recent years, but they are not as waterproof as more traditional designs of Gore-Tex jackets. Quality is often directly proportional to the price, and therefore one should expect to pay more for a quality jacket with Gore-Tex that also complies with the other standards such as fashion and functionality. Disposal 39 Mail from Christoffer from Spejdersport - Appendix 4. 31
Degradation of PTFE According to Gore- Tex, garments made from Gore- Tex can be safely disposed like any other apparel product. The raw material of the Gore- Tex membrane is not made of stabilizers or plasticizers, and it does not contain heavy metals or phthalates, which can harm the environment. The PTFE will not degrade into gasses, or release substances into the air or water, if it is disposed in a landfill, because it is inert solid. The only way to discard the PTFE-membrane is by burning it. When PTFE degrades in an incineration plant, the major product is carbonyl fluoride, COF 2, which hydrolyses to carbon dioxide, CO 2, and hydrogen fluoride, HF, in the air by reacting with moisture. The PTFE degrades into nearly pure monomer in the absence of oxygen. (Vacuum or an inert atmosphere) There are pollution control devices at the incineration plant, which captures the gases. 40 According to Gore, there is no recycling program for the Gore-Tex membrane. 41 The jacket with Gore-Tex membrane will after many years of use be burned, because of the difficulty of separating the laminate and membrane from the jacket. Actual Disposal Disposal of the Gore-Tex laminates is treaded like any other clothing products. It is most commonly sent to waste-incineration where it will get burned. An example of a wasteincineration plant could be like this one: 40 Environmental aspects of PTFE-laminate. 41 Mail from Martin Amnell Appendix 4. 32
When the jacket enters the incinerator it is burned at 1000 degrees. By incineration, slag is formed and a lot of gasses are discarded. The gas HF is formed from PTFE, which has an environmental limit of 1.5ppm 42 and the quantity is monitored closely at the site every half hour. TAS I/S gets around 150,000 tons waste through their waste facilities every year and in terms of Gore-Tex it is only one kg, therefore it is hardly measureable. Because of the security measures TAS I/S has not had any problems with HF, since there is not much PTFE. The gases are sent through a fume-purification plant, and then onto an activated carbon filter that removes mercury and gaseous metals. Finally lime is added in order to remove acid gases. 43 The gas then emits through a filter in the chimney and out into nature as fresh air. The average amount of fluorine due to PTFE or other fluorine sources in garbage is about 100-200g per metric ton. PTFE contains over 50% fluorine. The concentration of HF is low today, and it does not infect the environment, but it could be building to troublesome levels in the future. 44 42 http://www.at.dk/~/media/3fa26655715740ed84ea28ec1191fb62.ashx 43 Phone conversation with Jan Nielsen from TAS I/S. www.tas-is.dk 44 www.gore- tex.com.hk/web/eng/support/service/environmentalpolicy.pdf 33
Transport The North Face W Point Five Jacket size large has a total weight of 472 g or 0.472 kg. 45 The distance between Shanghai in China and Antwerpen in Belguim is about 10402 nautical miles 46, which is 19264.504 km. 47 The distance between Antwerpen to Bornem in Belgium to Copenhagen, Denmark is about 750 km. 48 To calculate the energy consumption it is necessary to know how much energy there is used in transporting a product. This information is given as: 45 Conversation with Anders Rex Larsen and Peter Bystrup in The North Face Store. 46 http://www.searates.com/reference/portdistance/?fcity1=706&fcity2=518&speed=14&ccode=3010 47 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/nautical_mile 48 http://www.mapcrow.info/cgi-bin/cities_distance_airpt2.cgi?city3=-2727361,b&city4=-3810472,c 34
Way of Transport Unit Energy consumption Ship (bulk carrier) MJ/kgkm 0.00004 Truck > 16 tons MJ/kgkm 0.001 Van < 3.5 tons MJ/kgkm 0.005 Figures taken from the document about calculation of LCA from Gitte Mellemgaard. The unit is MJ / kgkm, which means there is calculated at the energy consumption per km transported with one kg product. The total energy consumption is calculated by multiplying the number of kilometers and number of kilos. Starting by multiplying the km transported with the weight of the product transported, and then multiplying with the energy consumption, equals to these results: Way of Transport Transportation quantity Energy consumption Ship 9092.85 kgkm 0.363714 MJ 49 Truck 354 kgkm 0.354 MJ Total 9446.85 kgkm 0.717714 MJ The total energy consumption for the transportation of one jacket from The North Face is 0.363714 MJ + 0.354000 MJ = 0.717714 MJ 49 Calculations of transport - Appendix 3. 35
MECO overview MECO Material Manufacturing Usability Disposal Transport Materials: Jacket Oil: 0.018047 mpr Energy: Aluminum: 00.000015 mpr Jacket 55.68 MJ 7.95 MJ 17.10 MJ -10.79 MJ 0.717714 MJ Nikwax - - (245 litre water) - - - - 1.398 MJ (if washed 5 times) - - Chemicals Chloroform PFIB HCFC-22 Diisocyanate Vinyl chloride HF Other, CO2:Jacket 2.32945 kg 0.4792 kg 2.185 kg 1.0007 kg 0.293348 kg 36
Discussion The North Face has chosen Gore-Tex for its outstanding outdoor jackets but there are several other alternatives. The most appropriate substitute of water repellent brands would be Dermizax. In short terms Gore-Tex and Dermizax, manufactured by Gore and Toray respectively, are the only major manufactures of water repellent membranes. The diagram 50 illustrates how these membranes differentiate themselves from the rest of the market. Gore and Toray s products are available for every manufacturer of outdoor jackets, if their product meets with the quality tests performed by Gore and Toray. The run of other water repellent products are manufactured by the respective outdoor company or exclusively for them. Hence other water repellent products are cheaper to purchase for the individual company but it is very expensive to fund the research and development. Therefore Gore and Toray ought to retain an exclusive standard, which is expensive but they are better positioned to fund research and development because their products are not limited to one specific outdoor brand. The Dermizax membrane would provide The North Face W Point Five jacket with a water column pressure of 20,000 mm, a breathability of 16,000 g/m 2 /24 hrs, 100% windproof and excellent agility. These technical specifications would enable The North Face jacket to meet with the functional unit of this report with either membrane, Gore-Tex or Dermizax. 51 But do they differ on any other account? As mentioned above Gore s Gore-Tex membrane is a stronger brand and has been around for longer, whereas Toray s Dermizax membrane has just started to gain ground on the global market. Consumers also debate the topic on the Internet but in this case it is a matter of personal experience. 50 Marketing en introduktion. 51 http://www.torayentrant.com/dermizax/der_002.html 37
It would be suitable to make an LCA of a jacket fitted with the Dermizax in order to elaborate the difference on their environmental impact. Yet, it has just been argued that either membrane could fit The North Face W Point Five jacket. Hence the LCA would only differ on the manufacturing and disposal of the membrane. The Dermizax is made of PU, polyurethane. PU consists of the elements nitrogen, hydrogen, carbon and oxygen but it does not contain fluor as the Gore-Tex membrane. 52 The two elements that ought to be examined are fluor in Gore-Tex and nitrogen in Dermizax. Both elements are considered to have a negative impact on the environment if they were to break their chemical bond. 53 Fluor and nitrogen have consistent bond strengths with carbon and hydrogen respectively. The enthalpy figure 54 is an average number, the exact value depends upon the molecular environment in which the bond exists. Chemical bond Bond enthalpy KJ/mol C-F 423 N-H 389 DATABOG, fysik & kemi. Page 30 However, as argued in the disposal phase of the MECO table the jacket is likely to end up at an incineration plant. In this case most polluting compounds will be removed almost totally and in the end the jacket biggest contribution will be CO 2. Dangerous chemicals concerning manufacturing of Gore-Tex and Dermizax PTFE PU Chemicals Chloroform; PFIB; HCFC-22 Isocyanide Hazards Organ damage; cancer; Skin irritation; Ozone depleting Toxic; Skin, eyes & respiratory irritating Information from manufacturing of Gore-Tex and plastic information - Appendix 2. 52 PU plastic Appendix 2. 53 Ren Luft Miljøstyrelsen 54 The Bond Enthalpy is the energy required to break a chemical bond. 38
Both membranes use health concerning chemicals in the manufacturing process and as mentioned PTFE is known to cause polymer fever. But these concerns are diminished by the fact that PTFE and PU are manufactured in a sealed reactor. The last consideration would be the energy it takes to produce the waterproof laminates. As shown in the diagram of energy consumption and heat of combusting, the figures only differ slightly. Taking into account that the actual membrane in a ski jacket has an average weight of 10 grams the difference is infinitesimal. Energy consumption and heat of combusting values PTFE PU Manufacturing 152.5 MJ/Kg 119 MJ/Kg Disposal 15.9 MJ/Kg 22.35 MJ/Kg Energy calculations - Appendix 3. 39
Conclusion The life cycle assessment of The North Face jacket shows that the jacket emits 6.288 Kg CO 2 and has a total energy consumption of 77.75 MJ from cradle to grave. One can infer that even though the Gore-Tex membrane partially consists of fluor elements, the jacket does not impact the environment due to the halogen s strong bond to carbon. When manufacturing the membrane some chemicals are considered both a health and an environmental hazard. However, the manufacturing process is sealed. It has been concluded that the jacket will end up at an incineration plant, where it undergoes processes in order to filter the gasses released. Based on the consumer s habits the LCA is reduced to five years in the usage perspective. Both Gore-Tex and its alternative Dermizax are considered to equally have a minor impact on the environment. Although interchangeable in terms of performance, consumers consider Gore-Tex as the strongest brand. 40
Group work reflection Introduction Through this group work reflection we want to explain the processes that have governed our group during 1.semester project on the export line. The following is a reflection and discussion based on the work-flow, that we have been completed for the project. Reflection and discussion The two major stress factors that have been characteristic of our process are the lack of attendance and tangible results. At the beginning we talked allot about the project, both the project itself, but also team members' well-being. We have had several different considerations, some have been discarded while others have gone through a process of criticism before entering the report. The result of our conversations about each other's well-being created a great deal of trust within the group. We have discussed the project and the use of an LCA. We spent allot of effort agreeing our strategy and then debating progress throughout the project, and we hope that this is reflected in the final report. In some areas, we have been too meticulous with our considerations, which has been timeconsuming. Maintenance of the psychological contract We promised each other attendance in the psychological contract, but we have experienced failure in that respect. It has not been a direct strain, among other things due to the relatively small work load, but rather a minor frustration. However, it has been difficult to do anything about it because team members have typically been absent due to illness. Perhaps the lack of attendance mostly has been a burden because we repeatedly had to bring missing team members up to speed. We believe that this frustration might have affected the 41
overall performance more than expected and thus bears some blame for the lack of focus on the task. Conclusion The collaboration has grew better through the duration of the project. In the latter stages we worked intensively and focused on the task and everyone has clear objectives for the sub-tasks that lie ahead. We've come to realize that it is hard to expect that everyone always show up and has learned to delegate tasks - even for those who are not physically present. Everyone in the group will in various future teams be aware of how important it is to fill the role you have been assigned, or assumed, in order to get the optimum performance of problem solving. 42
Bibliograhpy Andersen, Ib (2009) Den skindbarlige virklighed om vidensproduktion inden for samfundsvidenskaberne (4. Edition - 2. Issue) Ebnesiajjad, Sina (2000) Fluoroplastics: Non-melt Processible Fluoroplastics (1. Edition) Freytag, Per (2009) Marketing en introduktion (4. Edition 1. Issue) Jensen, Bjarne (2005) Plast teknologi (2. Edition) Jespergaard, Paul (1989) Data bog fysik kemi (5. Edition 3. Issue) Miljøstyrelsen (2003) Renere luft den danske indsats Compendium Søndergaard, D. & Olesen, P.H. (2000) Plast teknologi 43
(2. Edition) Online documents Gore-Tex. Environmental policy. (2010) Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web www.gore-tex.com.hk/web/eng/support/service/environmentalpolicy.pdf Jensen, J. (August 2007) At- vejledningen, stoffer og materialer c.0.1. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web: http://www.at.dk/~/media/3fa26655715740ed84ea28ec1191fb62.ashx Laursen, Ellebæk. S. (2006) Well dressed? Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Webhttp://www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/sustainability/projects/mass/uk_textiles.pdf Mellemgaard, Gitte. (2010) Udledning af CO2-ækvivalenter pr kg materiale. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web https://www.campusnet.ihk.dk/cnnet/filesharing/viewfilehistory.aspx?elementid=22361&folderi d=152614&fileid=617067 Miljøstyrelsen. Håndbog i miljøvurdering af produkter. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.lca-center.dk/lca-center_docs/showdoc.asp?id=040607102248&type=doc&fname=87-7944-350-8+h%c3%a5ndbog+til+milj%c3%b8vurdering+af+produkter.pdf&pdf=true Miljøstyrelsen. (2010) Listen over uønskede stoffer 2009. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www2.mst.dk/udgiv/publikationer/2010/978-87-92617-15-6/pdf/978-87-92617-16-3.pdf Molyneaux, Ian 44
Environmental aspects of PTFE based laminates in relation to Halogen-Free Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.taconic-add.com/pdf/technicalarticles--environmental_aspects_of_ptfe.pdf Nikwax. Corporate Social Report. (2009) Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://69.39.31.102:8888/blog/nikwax/nikwax_csr_2009.final.us.pdf Sids Initial Assesment Report (2001) Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.inchem.org/documents/sids/sids/822060.pdf Webliography Energinet miljødeklarationer for el. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web Energi styrelsen. Vaskemaskiner. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.energinet.dk/da/klima-og-miljoe/miljoerapportering/sider/miljoedeklarationerfor-el.aspx http://www.ens.dk/da- DK/ForbrugOgBesparelser/ApparaterOgProdukter/energimaerkning2/Energimaerkning_af_apparat er_og_produkter/energimaerkets_indhold/sider/vaskemaskiner.aspx Figure from the Danish Environmental Protection Agency. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.lca-center.dk/lca-center_docs/showdoc.asp?id=040607102248&type=doc&fname=87-7944-350-8+h%c3%a5ndbog+til+milj%c3%b8vurdering+af+produkter.pdf&pdf=true Gore-Tex. About Gore-Tex Fabric. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web: 45
http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/satellite/content/what-is-gore-tex-membrane Gore-Tex. FAQs. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/satellite/content/customer-service/faq/5 Højmark. Ski jackets. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://butik.hojmark.dk/sog?sog=skijakke Icis. Chemical industry. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.icis.com/v2/chemicals/9076566/vinyl-chloride.html Mapcrow. Travel distance calculator. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.mapcrow.info/cgi-bin/cities_distance_airpt2.cgi?city3=-2727361,b&city4=-3810472,c Miljøministeriet. Listen over farlige stoffer. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.mst.dk/virksomhed_og_myndighed/kemikalier/stoflister+og+databaser/listen+over+f arlige+stoffer/s%c3%b8gning+i+farlige+stoffer.htm Pictures of Gore-Tex in a jacket. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web: http://www.gore-tex.com/remote/satellite/product-content/pro-shell Rank a brand. The North Face. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.rankabrand.com/the+north+face Sea Rates. Sea Freight Exchange. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.searates.com/reference/portdistance/?fcity1=706&fcity2=518&speed=14&ccode=3010 46
The Sunday Times. Best Green Companies. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://bestgreencompanies.thesundaytimes.co.uk/5/profile/356/nikwax/ Toray. Dermizax membrane. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.torayentrant.com/dermizax/der_002.html TRADEKD. Ski jackets. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.tradekd.com/product_list/g/8604/2515/ Washington State Uni. Defining sustainability. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://www.arch.wsu.edu/09%20publications/sustain/defnsust.htm Waste online. Recycling information sheet. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web: http://www.wasteonline.org.uk/resources/informationsheets/textiles.htm Wikipedia. Nautical Mile. Located Oct. Dec. 2010 at the World Wide Web http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/nautical_mile 47
Appendix 1: Homepage Hjemmesiden kan findes på: http://www.safegear.dk/goretex/index.html Formål: Underholde og informere uvidende forbrugere om Gore-Texs miljøbelastning. Målgruppe: Vores målgruppe er sat til 25-50 år. Se under afsnittet usage. Evaluering af hjemmesiden: Vi har sendt et spørgeskema ud til fire forskellige personer i alderen fra 25-50 år: Blå - James Hobbis-Mutton, 43 år Rød - Klaus Laustsen, 48 år Grøn - Mikkel Schack Iversen, 27 år Lilla - Mette Balsig Nielsen, 25 år Vi har fået følgende respons: 5 4 3 2 1 0 Overblik Farvevalg Layout NavigaRon Der gives karakterer fra 1-5, hvor 5 er bedst. Kommentarer: Klaus Laustsen: Videoen er for lang, og det er noget forstyrrende ungdommeligt musik. Lyder for meget som noget min søn ville høre. Mette Balsig Nielsen: Super fin hjemmeside. Den er overskuelig og nemt at finde ud af. 48
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Appendix 2: Plastics Polyvinylchloride (PVC) Velcro (CAS no. 9002-86-2) PVC is one of the cheapest, most flexible and the most common used of the polymers. In its pure form it is rigid and not very tough and its low price makes it an effective engineering plastic. It s also very flexible PVC when it is turned into elpvc, a material with rubber-like properties. Reinforced with glass fibers, the PCV becomes sufficiently stiff, strong and tough to be used in buildings. The monomer for PVC is Vinyl Chloride (VCM) with the CAS No: 75-01-43. The classification shows CARC;R45 FX;R12, which means it is dangerous to people, causes cancer and is highly flammable. Polyurethane (tppur) Zipper protection (CAS no. 9010-69-9) Polyurethane is a soft and stretchy material and fabric (Lycra or Spandex), but also leathery or rigid. Like PVC, polyurethanes have thermoplastic, elastomeric and thermosetting grades. They are easily foamed, by mixing it with a blowing agent. The foams can be open- or closed-cell, microcellular or filter grades. 52
Polyurethane is formed by reacting a monomer containing at least two isocyanate functional groups with another monomer containing at least two hydroxyl groups in the presence of a catalyst. Two isocyanides functional groups are also called diisocyanate and they have CAS no. 822-06-0. The classification is T;R23 XI;R36/37/38 R42/43 which is toxic by inhalation, irritating to the eyes, respiratory system and the skin. It can also cause sensitization by inhalation and contact to the skin. Polyoxymethylen (POM) Nifco Strings (CAS no. 82115-62-6) It is similar to nylon but is stiffer, and has better fatigue and water resistance - nylons, however, have better impact and abrasion resistance. It is rarely used without modifications: most often filled with glass fiber, flame retardant additives or blended with PTFE. The last, POM blend, is very robust. POM is used where requirements for good mold ability, fatigue resistance and stiffness justify its high price relative to mass polymers, like polyethylene, which are polymerized from cheaper raw materials using lower energy input. 53
Polyester Zipper and black plastic attached to the zipper (CAS no. 113669-95-7) Polyester is a category of polymers, which contain the ester functional group in their main chain. Polyesters can be a thermosets, a thermoplastics or elastomers. Most polyester thermosets are used in glass fiber/polyester composites. They are less stiff and strong than epoxies, but they are considerably cheaper. Polyamides (Nylon, PA) Laminate (CAS no. 9012-28-6) Polyamide or Nylon (PA) is a thermoplastic, which is equally divided in 50% oil and 50% gas. It is often used for industrial production because it s very resilient, but it can also be drawn to fibres as fine as silk and used in clothing. Today, newer fibres have eroded its dominance in garment design, but nylon as reinforcement for rubber, for example in car tires, remains important. It is used in product design for tough casings, frames and handles, and - reinforced with glass - as bearings gears and other load-bearing parts. There are many grades of polyamide (Nylon 6, Nylon 66, Nylon 11...) each with slightly different properties, but in this jacket there is used Nylon 6. 54
Appendix 3: Calculations CO 2 : 1kwh = 3.6 MJ Material: 2.32945 kg CO 2 Production: 3.75 MJ / 3.6 kwh = 1.04167 kwh * 0.460 kg/kwh 37 = 0.4792 kg CO 2 Use: 17.10 MJ / 3.6 kwh = 4.75 kwh * 0.460 kg/kwh = 2.185 kg CO 2 Disposal: 1.0007 kg CO 2 Transportation: Ship: 0.472 kg = 0.000472 ton * 19264,504 km * 26g/tkm 38 = 236.31 g = 0.236 kg CO 2 Truck: 0.472 kg = 0.000472 ton * 750 km * 162 g/tkm 3 = 57.348 g = 0.057348 kg CO 2 Total CO2: 6.08635 kg mpr: Kendte globale reserver pr. person kg/person: Oil: 25,600 Aluminum: 660 Olie: 0.462/25,600 = 0.018047 mpr Aluminum: 0.01/660 = 0.000015 mpr Energy: Material: PTFE: (145+160)/2 * 0.01 = 1.525 MJ Nylon: (121+135)/2 * 0.345 = 44.16 MJ PVC: (68+95)/2 * 0.034 = 2.771 MJ Polyurethane: (113+125)/2 * 0.002 = 0.238 MJ Polyxomethylen: (99.5+110)/2 * 0.031 = 3.24725 MJ Polyester: (84+93)/2 * 0.04 = 3.54 MJ 55
Aluminum: (18+21.4)/2 *0.01 = 0.197 M Total: 55.6783 MJ Manufacturing: 1/7 of 55.6783 = 7.95404 MJ Usability: 0.95* 3.6 MJ * 5 = 17.10 MJ 1 KWH = 3,6 MJ 0,77666 KWH = 0.2795976 MJ * 5 (wash) =1.398 MJ Disposal: PTFE: (15.5+16.3)/2 * 0.01 = 0.159 MJ Nylon: (30.1+31.6)/2 * 0.345 = 10.6433 MJ PVC: (17.5+18.4)/2 * 0.034 =0.6103 MJ Polyurethane: (21.8+22.9)/2 * 0.02= 0.0318 MJ Polyoxymethylen: (15.5+16.3)/2 * 0.031= 0.8897 MJ Polyester: (28+29.4)/2 * 0.04 = 1.148 MJ Total:13.5821 MJ * 0.80 = -10.7857 MJ Transport: 0.472 kg x 19264.504 km = 9092,85 kgkm This is multiplied with the energy consumption: Ship: 9092,85 kgkm x 0.00004 MJ/kgkm = 0.363714 MJ. The same procedure has been done with the km driven in truck from Antwerpen to Bornem in Belgium to Copenhagen, Denmark: 0,472 kg x 750 km = 354 kgkm Truck: 354 kgkm x 0.001 MJ/kgkm = 0.354 MJ. Total: 0.363714 MJ + 0.354000 MJ = 0.717714 MJ 56
Appendix 4: E-mails and conversations Se også Appendix 5, for en kort behandling af dataene. Martin Amnell fra Gore From: Line Kolling <linekolling@live.dk> To: Martin Amnell <mamnell@wlgore.com> Date: 2010-12-02 22:12 Subject: Re: Message from gore-tex.com contact us form Email Address: linekolling@live.dk Comments or Questions: Hi, Hej Martin We are four students from the University of Copenhagen, and we have a project about Gore-Tex. I have read about PTFE, but I wonder where the PTFE comes from? Is this something you can help us with? Thanks! Er det muligt at få et estimat af, hvor meget de enkelte dele i jakken vejer? (lynlås, gore-tex membran, for, snore osv.) I så fald, ved du hvem jeg kan kontakte, eller hvem der ligger inde med disse oplysninger? Kan du fortælle os, hvad laminatet består af andet end eptfe, og hvor meget eptfe der er? Hvor bliver jeres membraner fremstillet henne af? Bliver membranen solgt som metervare til producenterne, eller er det Gore-Tex, der implementerer den i jakkerne for de forskellige firmaer? På forhånd tak. De bedste hilsner Line Kolling +45 2829 9822 Fra: Martin Amnell <mamnell@wlgore.com> Emne: Vedr.: Message from gore-tex.com contact us form Dato: 8. dec 2010 14.34.08 CET Til: Line Kolling <linekolling@live.dk> Hej Line. 57
I dagsläget finns det inget program för recycling av GORE-TEX plagg. Jag talade med en kollega om detta och det enda vi kan svara på är ungefär hur mycket GORE-TEX laminatet väger i en "standard" skidjacka och det är ca 320 gram. Exakt hur mycket membranet väger per kvadratmeter är konfidentiell information men i ett plagg rör det sig endast om tiotals gram. Gore säljer endast färdigt laminat, alltså inte membran på metervara. (membran + textil, laminerad till en enhet, GORE-TEX laminat) Vi producerar membran i USA, Europa samt Asien, MVH Martin Amnell Birgitte Nielsen fra YKK (lynlås) Fra: Line Kolling <linekolling@live.dk> Emne: Ang jakke Dato: 2. dec 2010 14.38.10 CET Til: Birgitte Nielsen <birgitte.nielsen@ykk.dk> Hej Birgitte, Tak for snakken. Linket til jakken er følgende: http://www.friluftsland.dk/default.aspx?data=productprops&key=24386&load=main Vi er interesseret i at vide, hvor meget lynlåsen (model 5cn) vejer i denne jakke, og hvilket materiale den er lavet af. På forhånd tak. De bedste hilsner Line Kolling +45 2829 9822 Fra: birgitte.nielsen@ykk.dk Emne: Vedr.: Fwd: Ang jakke 58
Dato: 10. dec 2010 13.50.31 CET Til: Line Kolling star_kolling@hotmail.com Hej igen Line En delbar 6 mm spiral model 5cn med standard skyder på 60 cm vejer 12 gram. Modellen er lavet af polyester. Med venlig hilsen / Best regards Birgitte Falslund Nielsen Customer Service Erik Hove fra Røde Kors Fra: Line Kolling Emne: Ang. genbrug Sendt: 25. november 2010 14:17 Til: Erik Hove Hej, Vi er fire studerende fra Ingeniørhøjskolen i København, og vi har et projekt om bæredygtige produkter. Vi har fokus på skijakker med imprægneringsmidlet Gore-Tex. Vi er derfor nysgerrige om, hvad I gør med de beklædningsgenstande, folk afleverer, som I ikke kan bruge? Afleverer I det på lossepladsen til forbrænding eller hvordan fungerer det? De bedste hilsner Mads Nielsen, Kasper Laustsen, Line Lynnerup og Line Kolling Ingeniørhøjskolen i København Lautrupvang 15 Ballerup +45 2829 9822. Fra: Erik Hove <erh@drk.dk> Emne: SV. Ang. genbrug Dato: 25. nov 2010 14.29.42 CET Til: Line Kolling <linekolling@live.dk> Hej Befolkningens donationer af beklædning m.m. til os via vore butikker eller indsamlingscontainere bliver sorteret hhv. i vore butikker og delvist på 2 centrale centre. Her udtager vi ca. 7-8 % af det 59
donerede, som vi har erfaring for kan sælges i en af vore 205 butikker. Blandt det donerede er ca. 10 % at karakterisere som affald, hvilket vi derfor skaffer os af med på genbrugsstationer. Det øvrige materiale sælger vi til den europæiske genbrugsindustri, hvor der foretages en yderligere sortering og hvor noget går til forsat direkte anvendelse som beklædning andet indgår som råvare til andre produkter. Se nærmere på disse links: http://www.fws.de/index.php/page_id/4/language/en http://www.fachverband-textil-recycling.de/ http://www.wasteonline.org.uk/resources/informationsheets/textiles.htm Venlig hilsen Erik Hove Sektionschef Dansk Røde Kors genbrug MST Fra: Mads Nielsen [mailto:mnielsen89@gmail.com] Sendt: 25. november 2010 13:02 Til: MIM - Miljøministeriets Informationscenter Emne: HCFC-22 i henhold til Montreal protokollen Hi MST Jeg er studerende og i gang med et projekt. Projektet omhandler kort miljøvenligheden i outdoorjakker med Gore-Tex membraner. Da jeg kiggede på produktionen af membranen der hovedsageligt består af det revolutionerende PTFE, fandt jeg frem til at dette fremstilles v.h.a. CHClF2 også kaldet HCFC-22. Mit spørgsmål går derpå om Montreal protokollens udfasning af HCFC-22 der betyder at allerede her i 2010 er fremstilling og import af HCFC-22 ulovligt og man sigter efter en 100% udfasning allerede i 2020. Da det virker ulogisk at forbyde fremstillingen af PTFE, populært kaldet Teflon, tror jeg mit problem er fortolkningsmæssigt. HCFC-22 er nemlig kun sidste led i fremstilling af TFE (der er et polymer til PTFE). Derfor gælder "fremstilling" måske ikke som et led i produktion af andre substanser? (her TFE) Dvs. at HCFC-22 som led i en produktion er fuldt ud lovligt? 60
Håber i kan hjælpe mig med mit fortolkningsspørgsmål. Mvh Mads Fra: MIM - Miljøministeriets Informationscenter <info@mim.dk> Dato: 1. dec 2010 10.55.35 CET Til: "Mads Nielsen" <mnielsen89@gmail.com> Emne: SV: HCFC-22 i henhold til Montreal protokollen Kære Mads Tak for din henvendelse. Montreal-protokollen bliver håndhævet indenfor det europæiske fællesskab ved forordning (EF) nr. 1005/2009. Forordningens artikel 7 fastslår, at forordningens artikel 4-5 forbud om produktion og markedsføring ikke gælder, når der er tale om råvarer ( feedstock på engelsk): "»råvare«: et kontrolleret stof eller et nyt stof, der omdannes kemisk i en proces, hvori dets oprindelige sammensætning ændres fuldstændig, og hvis emissioner er ubetydelige". Montreal-protokollen regulerer også feedstock -brug af HCFC-22, men man har fastsat, at den type anvendelse er lovlig i alle tilfælde. Det har været foreslået, at Montreal-protokollen skal regulere brugen af HCFC'er som feedstock strengere, dvs. at opgive den generelle tilladelse og kun tillade brugen til feedstock efter individuelle vurderinger, fordi produktionen af HCFC-22 har en kraftig drivhusgas som biprodukt. Der foreligger dog ikke nogen politisk beslutning endnu fra de, i Montreal-protokollen, involverede parter. Produktionen af teflon er altså ikke berørt af det nuværende forbud, fordi der er tale om feedstock brug. Hvis du har yderligere spørgsmål, er du velkommen til at kontakte os igen. Venlig hilsen Tobias Grindsted Miljøministeriets Informationscenter The Danish Ministry of the Environment's Centre for Information http://informationscenter.mim.dk Dir. tlf.: (+45) 70 12 02 11 info@mim.dk Miljøministeriet Miljøstyrelsen Strandgade 29 DK - 1401 København K Du kan selv bestille pjecer og rapporter i Netboghandelen på http://www.mim.dk/udgivelser/netboghandlen/ 61
Kasper Lang fra Spejdersport Hej Line. Nedenfor ser du vores besvarelser. Jeg håber du kan bruge dem. Visse spørgsmål kan jeg ikke besvare, da vi ikke sælger jakker med Gore-tex. Med venlig hilsen Kasper Lang Butikschef City 2, plan 1 2630 Taastrup Tlf.: 43 55 35 16 taastrup@spejdersport.dk Fra: Line Kynde Lynnerup [mailto:90362@hih.au.dk] Sendt: 18. november 2010 11:52Til: TaastrupEmne: SV: ang. semstersprojekt om gore-tex Tusind tak, det er dejligt at du vil prøve at hjælpe. Her er spørgsmålene. Hvis du er i tvivl ang. nogle af spørgsmålene, må du endelig sige til, eller ringe til mig på 28901073. Hvis du selv har noget at tilføje, er du også meget velkommen til dette. 1. Hvad er tendensen/moden inden for skijakker lige nu? (farver, stof (evt. softshell), mærker, kvalitet) Kan ikke besvares da vi ikke sælger ski jakker. 2. Hvem køber jeres gore-tex jakker? (alder, økonomiske faktorer, mode) 2. Hvilke mærker sælger i, i jeres butik? Bergans, Patagonia, Fjällräven, The North Face, Warmpeace og flere øvrige mærker. De kan ses på vores hjemmeside www.spejdersport.dk 3. Hvilken jakke sælger i mest, eller solgte i flest af sidste år? Dette kan jeg ikke svare på 4. Hvilken holdning har kunder til gore-tex? De fleste kunder kender Gore-Tex som et varemærke som holder dem tørre men kender ikke 62
til produktionen af den 5. Kender kunderne gore-tex (hvor mange procent?) eller forklarer i for dem hvordan det virker i jakken? Procentvis kan vi ikke oplyse det. Mange kender som skrevet ovenfor mest Gore-Tex som et varemærke, men nogle tror også at det er en jakke fabrikant, da de får at vide at de skal skaffe en Gore-tex jakke for at holde sig tørre 6. Hvad forklarer i helt præcist? Vi fortæller om kundernes fordele og udbytter ved jakkernes egenskaber, men ikke i detaljer hvordan det bliver fremstillet. 7. Hvilke vaskeanvisninger giver i til en gore- tex jakke? Og hvilken imprægnering foreslår i? Benyt vaskemiddel beregnet til skaljakker og følg vaskeinstruktionen i jakken. benyt en passende imprægnering som stadig tillader at jakken kan ånde. Indvask imprægnering holder længst men bryder også noget af åndbarheden indefra. Spray imprægnering er nemmest men man skal imprægnere oftere. 8. Hvad betyder noget/ mest når jeres kunder skal ud og have ny skijakke? Vi gør det ikke så meget i skijakker, men generelt for vores salg gælder det om, at kunden kommer tilfreds hjem med den rigtige vare. 9. Hvor lang tid kan skijakken holde? Giver i de facts videre som i får fra producenten, eller forlænger/forkorter i holdbarheden. Dette bliver vi sjældent spurgt om, men det kommer an på brugen af jakkerne. Generelt for skaljakker gælder, at det er jakker som er lavet til at holde til stort slid. 10. Har i kendskab til andre alternativer end gore-tex? Hvilke? Hvilke sælger i i butikken? Vi sælger mest af Mærket Dermisax. Kommer fra det japanske firma Toray, som er en af de største membran producenter sammen med Gore. Visse tøj firmaer har egne membraner eller coatings da det gør det billigere at producere og er derfor kun benyttet i deres egne produkter. 11. Hvad er gore-tex's største konkurrent på markedet? Toray 13. Har kunderne kendskab til andre alternativer? Ikke meget andet end hvad vi fortæller dem Foretrækker kunderne andre alternativer? Ikke nødvendigvis. For nogle er Gore-tex en religion fordi det har de god erfaring med, men de fleste går ikke op i det 63
Kristian fra Intersport Esbjerg Hej Line Nedenfor har du svarene på dine spørgsmål. Jeg håber de er fyldestgørende nok, og det kan bruges, ellers må du jo selvfølgelig gerne henvende dig igen. MVH Kristian Intersport Esbjerg 1. Hvad er tendensen/moden inden for skijakker lige nu? (farver, stof (evt. softshell), mærker, kvalitet) Stofmæssigt ændrer mange jakker sig i de her år, det bliver blødere og mere strækbart end eksempelvis softshell, som er på vej ud igen, efter flere år, hvor det har været en stor succes. Strækbarheden øger bevægeligheden i jakken, og dermed en bedre pasform. Det er mærker som især Lasse Kjus (LK), der træder frem, men også peak performance er i år kommet med nogle jakker i denne kvalitet. Rent farvemæssigt, er sort stadig den største sællert, selvom vi prøver at skabe lidt flere muligheder, med flere farver. 2. Hvem køber jeres gore-tex jakker? (alder, økonomiske faktorer, mode) Det svinger meget i alder, hvem der køber en forholdsvis dyr jakke, som en jakke med goretex er. Men generelt folk der gerne vil have kvalitet, og gerne vil have en jakke, der holder i flere år. Det kan de fleste også se fornuften i. Så det behøver ikke være en velhavende person, der køber, men også sagtens den almindelige gennemsnitsdansker, som står på ski en gang årligt og ellers bruger den herhjemme. 2. Hvilke mærker sælger i, i jeres butik? Vi har mange forskellige skitøjsmærker i butikken, dog kun Peak Performance med goretex. Men udover det, har vi Lasse Kjus, Salomon, 8848, Mckinley, Kilmanock, H2O, The North Face og Helly Hansen. 3. Hvilken jakke sælger i mest, eller solgte i flest af sidste år? Det er svært at nævne en, vi sælger flest af, da der er mange ting, der skal gå op, for at mange kunder finder EN bestemt jakke interessant. Det drejer sig meget om farve, og om man synes den sidder godt, samt prisen. Så når sæsonen er omme, er der flere forskellige jakker, som er gået godt, men mærker som folk kender, Peak f.eks, er altid godt. 4. Hvilken holdning har kunder til gore-tex? Dem, der kender til det, ved at det er en god kvalitet, og går tit efter en jakke, med en goretex membran i. De er så også nogle gange svære, at få over i en jakke uden goretex. 5. Kender kunderne gore-tex (hvor mange procent?) eller forklarer i for dem hvordan det virker i jakken? I og med goretex er et brand i sig selv, er der mange der kender til det, også fordi det har været her i så mange år. Jeg vil tro, at omkring 40% har hørt det omtalt. Ved resten forklarer vi, hvad det er, og hvilken funktion det har i jakken, for at kunne sige forskellene på alle de muligheder der er. 6. Hvad forklarer i helt præcist? 64
Vi forklarer hvad vandsøjletrykket er, for at kunne sige, hvor højt det er på goretex, og dermed sige, at det ikke kan fås bedre, hvad angår vandtæthed. Så snakker vi gerne lidt om åndbarhed, og får altid nævnt, at der er livstidsgaranti på goretex. 7. Hvilke vaskeanvisninger giver i til en gore-tex jakke? Og hvilken imprægnering foreslår i? Vi nævner altid overfor kunden, at de skal bruge noget vaskemiddel, som er lavet til vandtæt og åndbart tøj, og foreslår samtidig NikWax, - som vi har i butikken - som også er anbefalet af goretex. Og så ellers følge vaskeanvisningen i tøjet, da det ikke altid er det samme. 8. Hvad betyder noget/ mest når jeres kunder skal ud og have ny skijakke? Prisen, pasformen, og funktionaliteten er meget afgørende parametre. Ikke nødvendigvis i nævnte rækkefølge. Tit er pasformen vigtig for kunden, og kan derfor være det, der afgør hvilken jakke det bliver. 9. Hvor lang tid kan skijakken holde? Giver i de facts videre som i får fra producenten, eller forlænger/forkorter i holdbarheden. Det er ikke til at sætte et tal på holdbarheden, for sørger man for at vaske den og holde den som anbefalet, kan man have jakken i mange år. Det afhænger også tit af, hvor dyr en jakke man køber, og hvor meget den bliver brugt. Vi bruger nogle råd fra producenten, men giver aldrig en tid for holdbarheden. 10. Har i kendskab til andre alternativer end gore-tex? Hvilke? Hvilke sælger i i butikken? Ja, der er flere forskellige muligheder: Dermizax(20000mm og 20000mm) er et godt alternativ, som har en større åndbarhed end goretex, men dog en lidt lavere vandtæthed(goretex 29000mm ). Ellers har vi Airflow fra Kilmanock, Duratec i 8848, Aquamax fra Mckinley, HellyTech fra Helly Hansen, ClimaPro fra Salomon, XQL fra H2O, og HyVent fra North Face. 11. Hvad er gore-tex's største konkurrent på markedet? Det vil jeg mene er Dermizax, som bliver brugt af både Peak og Lasse Kjus. 12. Har kunderne kendskab til andre alternativer? Kunderne kender nok ikke navnene på alternativer, men bliver mere og mere bevidste om vandsøjletryk, og hvor højt det bør være, for at være godt nok. 13. Foretrækker kunderne andre alternativer? Som før nævnt, skal der noget til, for at lokke de kunder, der ved hvad goretex er, væk fra det. Men det kan lade sig gøre, og så snart vi har fortalt dem, hvad der ellers findes, er det ikke kun goretex de kigger efter, men så er det også muligt at få dem i andet. Det handler tit om, at de finder ud af, at der findes andet, som også er godt. Og derefter går de ikke efter en bestemt membran eller coating, men mere efter den gode pasform. Telefonmøde med Christoffer fra Spjedersport Chrisfoffer Larsen indkøber for spejder sport. 65
Email: christoffer@spejdersport.dk Tlf: 43 55 35 12 1. Hvad er tendensen/moden inden for skijakker lige nu? (farver, stof (evt. softshell), mærker, kvalitet) Jakker der kan anvendes til flere ting. Mørke farver. Softshell er stadig in. Isolerede skijakker. Spejdersports to skijakkemærker: Vergaons og pertagonians. Prisleje: 2000-4000kr. Brug: Hver eneste dag, kan jakken måske holde et år.ved brug 1 uge om året kan jakken holde 10-15 år. En ca. brugstid for kunder, hvor mode og tendes spiller ind, beholder kunderne ca. en jakke 4-5år. 1. Hvem køber jeres gore-tex jakker? (alder, økonomiske faktorer, mode) Mænd kvinder halv halv. Alder spænder vidt. Forventning om at det er noget der holder fordi den er dyr. Jakken skal helst kunne bruges til flere formål. Den har bedre ydeevne end en billig jakke. 3. Hvilken jakke sælger i mest, eller solgte i flest af sidste år? Tendens samme for i år og sidste år. Lettere trelags skaljakke 2500kr. sort sælger langst mest. 2. Hvilken holdning har kunder til gore-tex? Mange kender navnet gore-tex, og spørger efter en gore-tex jakke. Kun få vil have den mere tekniske forklaring bag gore-tex og dets virkning. Den generelle dansker er kun interesseret i at vide hvad jakken gør for dem. Tit er det nok bare at sige jakken holder dem tør og varm. Gore-tex er statisk hvorimod derminisax er elastisk. Oftest er membranen lamineret til en nylon, eller noget andet strækbart. Derfor har det en negativ virkning at gore-tex ikke kan strække sig, da membranen dermed kan blive ødelagt. 7. Hvilke vaskeanvisninger giver i til en gore-tex jakke? Og hvilken imprægnering foreslår i? Vaskes 40 grader tumbles ved mellemvarme. Der sker ikke noget ved gore tex membranen når den bliver vasket, det har den kun godt af. Men yder imprægneringen bliver vasket af og derfor skal den ny yderimprægnering på hver gang den vaskes. Det kan gøres på to måder. 1. Nikwax flydende som jakken vaskes i. ulempen her er, at hele jakken får denne 66
imprægnering hvor det kun er ydersiden der har brug for det. I og med at indersiden får, gør jakken mindre åndbar. Derfor er det bedre bare at sprøjte imprægneringen på. Nikwax er desuden fri for fluorcarbon. 11. Hvad er gore-tex's største konkurrent på markedet? Dermisax. Handelsnavn, toray andre laminater. Nogle af deres produkter er billigere. Der er en balance mellem gore-tex og toray. De fastholder deres markedsandel. 12. Har kunderne kendskab til andre alternativer? En stor del kender kun gore-tex, nørderne kender alternativer og de tekniske baggrunde. 14. Hvordan bliver jakken afskaffet? Hvad gør folk af jakken når de er færdig med at bruge den. Dermisax Polyurathan PU, eller polyester i stedet for PTFE. Program med patigonia, undertøj, fleece, bomuldsprodukter. Lille stigning. I butikken salgstale om at aflevere tilbage. Genbruger de det de kan genbruge. Patigonias hjemmeside. Commonfightts.com. Conversation with Anders Rex Larsen and Peter Bystrup in The North Face Store at Gammel Mønt 11, 1117 Copenhagen. Thursday 2/12-2010 The North Face Women s Point Five Jacket size large. Details Colour: Total weight: Blue 472 gram Material: - - - - - - - - - 100 % Nylon plain weave outer and inner layer, 70 d 147g/kvm 20 cm steel wire (in hood) 20 x 5 cm 2 hardened plastic plate 5 YKK zippers with PU protection 5cn o Centre body 66 cm o Pockets 2 x 27 cm o Ventilation 2 x 34 cm o Total 188 cm About 10 x 10 cm 2 layer of polyester in hood 2 x Plastic Velcro 6 x 2 cm 2 String lock brand Nifco x 7 Unknown length of thin nylon string 5 small plastic tabs 67
Manufactured in China and transported by ship to a distribution warehouse in Bornem, Belgium. It is then transported by truck to Copenhagen, Denmark. Maximum wash at 40 degrees. North Face recommends Nikwax. They prefer Tx.Direct spray- on instead wash- in. This is mainly because the wash in product will impregnate the inner lining and preventing respiration. Oversigt af samtaler med Christoffer, Spejdersport; Kristian, Intersport; Kasper Lang; Spejdersport. Levetid Antal vask årligt Antal imprægnering årligt med flydende 5år 1 gange 1 gang Hvilke vaskeanvisninger giver i til en gore-tex jakke? Og hvilken imprægnering foreslår i? Benyt vaskemiddel beregnet til skaljakker og følg vaskeinstruktionen i jakken. Benyt en passende imprægnering som stadig tillader at jakken kan ånde. Indvask imprægnering holder længst men bryder også noget af åndbarheden indefra. Spray imprægnering er nemmest men man skal imprægnere oftere. Vi nævner altid overfor kunden, at de skal bruge noget vaskemiddel, som er lavet til vandtæt og åndbart tøj, og foreslår samtidig Nikwax, - som vi har i butikken - som også er anbefalet af goretex. Og så ellers følge vaskeanvisningen i tøjet, da det ikke altid er det samme. Vaskes 40 grader tumbles ved mellemvarme. Der sker ikke noget ved gore-tex membranen når den bliver vasket, det har den kun godt af. Men yder imprægneringen bliver vasket af og derfor skal den ny yderimprægnering på hver gang den vaskes. Imprægnering kan ske på to måder: Nikwax flydende som jakken vaskes i. ulempen her er, at hele jakken får denne imprægnering hvor det kun er ydersiden der har brug for det. I og med at indersiden får, gør jakken mindre åndbar. Derfor er det bedre bare at sprøjte imprægneringen på. *Nikwax er desuden fri for fluorcarbon. 68
Hvor lang tid kan skijakken holde? Giver i de facts videre som i får fra producenten, eller forlænger/forkorter i holdbarheden. Dette bliver vi sjældent spurgt om, men det kommer an på brugen af jakkerne. Generelt for skaljakker gælder, at det er jakker som er lavet til at holde til stort slid. Det er ikke til at sætte et tal på holdbarheden, for sørger man for at vaske den og holde den som anbefalet, kan man have jakken i mange år. Det afhænger også tit af, hvor dyr en jakke man køber, og hvor meget den bliver brugt. Vi bruger nogle råd fra producenten, men giver aldrig en tid for holdbarheden. Brug: Hver eneste dag, kan jakken måske holde et år. Ved brug 1 uge om året kan jakken holde 10-15 år. En ca. brugstid for kunder, hvor mode og tendens spiller ind, beholder kunderne ca. en jakke 4-5år. 69
Appendix 5: Consideration of Data Kvalitative data Hjemmeside: I forbindelse med hjemmesiden har vi opstillet et meget enkelt spørgeskema. Vi har testet kodningen fra andre klassekammerater, og responsen der var god. Efter deres mening, var det ikke til at tage fejl af betydningen. Vores respondenter hertil er familie medlemmer til gruppen. Derfor kan vi ikke være hundrede procent sikker på objektiviteten. Grunden til at vi alligevel har taget disse personer, er fornøden tid. Spørgsmål til forhandlere af Gore-tex membraner: Der er blevet kontaktet personer i branchen for skitøj. Det er alle sportsforretninger, nogle forhandler med Gore-tex og andre gør ikke. Det gode herved, er at vi kan vurdere hvorvidt dem der rent faktisk forhandler Gore-tex er farvet af dette, i forhold til dem der ikke forhandler med Goretex. Det viste sig at svarene var nogenlunde ligedanne. Dette er naturligvis positivt i forbindelse med kvaliteten af vores indsamlede data. Vi kunne dog savne nogle flere svar da dette ville give os et bedre og mere præcist grundlag, men vi har desværre ikke kunne få flere svar. Det skyldes primært at mange butikker har meget travlt op til jul. Vi har heller ikke fået kodet spørgsmålene med udefrakommende. Dette er også en fejl. En af gruppemedlemmerne fik udarbejdet spørgsmålene, hvorefter de andre medlemmer vurderede dem. Her var der ikke noget at komme efter, men man burde af taget hensyn til at de andre gruppemedlemmer ikke er objektive da de har en viden i projektet. Generelt for de kvalitative data er, at vi i mange henseender kun har kunnet få et svar, og derfor ikke har haft noget at sammenligne med. Dette stiller os dårligt i forhold til vurdering af disse data. Vi har dog prøvet at finde supplerende oplysninger på nettet der kunne underbygge de svar vi har fået fra professionelle. I og med at de fleste emails har været fra professionelle på området, giver det os lidt mere tillid til kvaliteten. 70